MOUNT EVEREST EXPEDITION NORTH
TIBET - APRIL TO JUNE
Whether you are a first timer or have scaled this mountain before, every experience is challenging and unique in its own way. A successful summit requires the right preparation, right team work, a high degree of physical fitness and of course, good weather.
Climbing from Tibet via the North Col route doesn't have the dangers of the Khumbu Icefall, but this does not necessarily mean that it is safer. Making it all the way to the summit is as equally challenging as climbing from the South Col. When climbing from the North Col, the last day of climbing to the summit is considerably longer,and more technical than the summit day on the Southeast Ridge.
Sherpa Khumbiyila Adventures had a successful summit this year on 20th May 2016.We would like to continue the momentum in the coming years 2017 and 2018.It will be lead by our expert mountain guide Mr.Nima Kanchha Sherpa who lead the successful summit this year, and has been a high altitude climbing guide for the last 14 years.
All of our staff members,including Sherpas,cooks,and kitchen staff have extensive expedition experience and a thorough understanding of local conditions; therefore they are well adapted to keeping things under control in difficult situations. All our climbing Sherpas are from mountaineering backgrounds,and our sumitters are all from the Khumbu region.The cooks and kitchen staff are a mix of Sherpas and local Tibetans who do this work every climbing season.
Great team spirit is required for any successful expedition.Our Sherpas,cooks and helpers will set up and manage all that is required at Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp for your convenience.Your personal Sherpa will take care of your needs at higher elevations.They will help you to change your oxygen, fix your regulator problems, communicate with Base Camp, make sure that you are hydrated,and help to guide you all the way to the summit and back to Base Camp safely.
Good teamwork is essential for a successful summit and to make it a safe and enjoyable experience. The safety and fitness of all team members, proper kitchen facilities and hygiene, fresh food,vegetables and clean drinking water are our highest priorities.
Shower tents are available at Base Camp for hot showers.
Internet access is possible through buying a local sim card and purchasing data. Our guides will assist you with this in case you need it.It is possible to buy a local sim card at Thingri.
Max. Altitude: 8848 m.
Trip Duration: 58 days
Trek Grade: EXTREME HIGH ALTITUDE
Accommodation: Teahouse & camping
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & Dinner
Transportation: Car / Van / Plane
Best Time: April - June Only
Per day Hiking: 5 to 8 hours
Day 10 / 14
Day 17 / 52
Arrive in Kathmandu, Nepal.
Our representatives will pick you up at the airport and transfer you to the hotel. For those joining the expedition in Kathmandu, all team members should aim to meet at the hotel on this day.
Our expedition guide will check everyone's climbing gear and equipment.Purchasing of any last minute required equipment will be made in Kathmandu.(Kathmandu is the last opportunity to buy any gear that is required for the expedition.)
This day will be utilised to get all remaining shopping finalised,exchange money(into USD and Yuan),and obtain visas.In the afternoon,a short walk to monkey temple can be done or clients can take rest.
Drive to Zhangmu (2350 m, 7708 ft) via Friendship Bridge of Kodari.
We will set out in early morning for Zhangmu.We will drive to the Friendship Bridge at Kodari, cross the Nepalese border, and continue the drive to Zhangmu to spend the night in a hotel.
Drive to Nyalam (3750m, 12303 ft)
We will drive to Nyalam, check into a hotel and spend the night here.
Acclimatization day in Nyalam:
After breakfast we will hike up to a 4000 m (13,123 ft) ridge, enjoy the incredible view from the top, and descend back to Nyalam.
Drive to Thingri (4350m. / 14271ft)
Today we will drive to Old Thingri, one of the largest towns in the area, and check into a hotel to spend the night. Note: beware of dogs, especially at night. We recommend that you only walk around during the evening in groups.
Acclimatisation Day in Thingri.
After breakfast we will go for a hike up to (4650m/15255ft) to help acclimatise our bodies and enjoy the view point.We will descend back to the hotel and spend the night.
Drive to Everest Base Camp (5200m/17060ft)
Early in the morning, we will set off for Everest Base Camp.The scenery becomes more spectacular as we round each corner. Finally there is the awesome north face of Everest, at the head of the valley before us.We will be able to catch the amazing view from the Pang La (5150m) at the main crest of the Himalayas at sunrise.
Acclimatisation at EBC (5200m/17060ft)
We will spend five days at Base Camp while our bodies adapt to the altitude.This gives us plenty of time to go for hikes, enjoy the views,and photograph Everest.For interested hikers, there are options to walk through the valley to Rongbuk Monastery five miles (8 km) away,and hike to Tillman's Camp to enjoy views of the north side of Everest.It is recommended to not to overdo activities but also give enough time to rest,acclimatise and gather much needed energy through proper care. Staying hydrated is particularly important at high altitudes.
Trek to First Interim Camp (5,800m/19028ft)
We will trek on foot towards Everest. It will take us five to six hours to get to the first Interim Camp, depending on our walking pace.The trek will begin easily enough, crossing the pebble floodplain of the Rongbuk River, then weaving along a good path between the glacier and the valley side.After about two hours we will reach a good viewpoint,and then turn steeply up to the left, leaving the main central Rongbuk Valley.Trekking further up,we will see the amazing pinnacles of the East Rongbuk Glacier. After approximately three hours trek, we will enter into the East Rongbuk Valley. We will camp on the right bank.
Trek to Advance Base Camp (6,440m/21128ft)
Today, we will trek to Advanced Base Camp, which will take six to seven hours.During the climb you will be able to see the whole of the North East Ridge of Everest, from the Raphu La to the summit.
Everest Climbing period
The coming days are spent on route preparation, while the Sherpas will work on the rope and ladder fixing.
The climbing members who are doing well with the altitude will aim to reach camp II through camp I by spending a night in camp I.The reason for having this routine is that the distance between ABC and camp II is 22 km, and by doing this the climbing members can get an opportunity to acclimatise and descend to EBC before the summit window. This routine helps to skip the "second rotation" and conserve time to help your Sherpas to set up the higher camps.
The climbing members who are struggling with the altitude at ABC will be heading back to EBC for rest.The acclimatisation routine will not be carried out until clients are ready for the summit. This could mean continuing to gradually move forward, but also taking enough rest to prepare for the summit window.
In case of not being able to complete the first rotation successfully by members, this rotation is carried out to reach the higher camps and descend back to prepare for the summit.
After resting and preparing, we will return to ABC for the summit push. Once everything is ensured, we gradually head up to higher camps, spend the night and continue to head towards the last camp. We will be climbing upward and spending the night at:
Camp I (7000m/22965ft), Camp II (7700m/25262ft),Camp III (8300m/27230ft) respectively.
Today is the most important day of this expedition.You need to be in high spirits to help yourself and your Sherpa reach the summit on time and return safely. As the main goal of this expedition is to complete this day safely, every minute and every step is important. Most importantly, it is not the successful summit but the successful descent that saves the day. Your coordination with your personal Sherpa guide is the key to your success and safety.
At 9-10 pm we will aim to leave from camp III for the summit (depending on the conditions). We will be taking all necessary supplies for the summit such as oxygen,water,etc.Your Sherpa will carry your extra oxygen and help you to change your oxygen bottle and lead you to summit.
Next morning around 7-8 am, we will be standing on the summit of the world's highest mountain, Mt. Everest.
Team members walk to Base Camp.
Packing of personal equipment at Base Camp.
Depart Base Camp and drive to Zhangmu to spend a night in a hotel.
:Drive from Zhangmu to Kathmandu.
Rest Day in Kathmandu.This day can be spent shopping for gifts for friends and families,getting massages and relaxing.In the evening we will get together for a farewell dinner with the whole crew.
Peak permit fee. Tibet visa fee.
Hotel with breakfast in Kathmandu at 3 star hotel for 5 nights (twin sharing) and full board in Tibet.
Transportation of members,staffs and food supply from Kathmandu- Base Camp-Kathmandu.
All food and fuel for Base Camp , advance base camp and higher camps during expedition.
Luggage transfer from base camp to advance base camp and from advance base camp to base camp.
Common climbing equipment (Required rope, ice bar,ice screw,etc.
Rope fixing charge for Chinese climbers.
High altitude tents for all members and climbing Sherpa.
Single tent with padded floor and mattress at Base Camp and advance base camp for each member.
Generator/Solar panel at Advance Base Camp for light and charging.
Dining tent,Kitchen tent,toilet tent, shower tent,solar panel,chairs & tables for Base Camp.
6 oxygen bottles (4Ltrs) mask and regulator per member for use only.(Extra Oxygen cost $500 per bottle).
One high altitude experienced Sherpa per climber to carry all food and gear to higher camps. Also assist the member during climb and summit attempt.
Equipment allowances,daily wages, insurance, food and tents for Sherpa guide,cook,kitchen boy,Liaison Officer.
Walkie-talkie radio for communication (expedition use only).
Satellite phone for emergency use. Personal calls subjected to charges ($3 per min).
High way and conservation charges. Garbage deposit.
Nepal entry visa fee.(can be obtained at the airport upon arrival).
Reentry visa for Nepal.The re-entry visa can be obtained at the immigration office in Kodari.
Meals in Kathmandu.
Extra days in Hotel in Kathmandu after 5 nights.
Personal climbing gear above advance base camp.
Personal insurance such as travel, accident,
medical,emergency evacuation and lost luggage.
Applicable permit fees and customs charges, etc. for SAT phone,communication equipment and commercial filming.
Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone and Email,etc.
Applicable customs duty and import license fees for all expedition goods arriving in Nepal as air/road cargo.
Tips and bonuses.
Climbing Sherpa summit bonus : $ 1000.